Susumaniello: history, character and pairings of Puglia's rare grape

Susumaniello is one of the most curious grape varieties in Puglia: ancient, long forgotten and now back in the glass. It has a name that makes people smile, a history that nearly ended in the twentieth century and a grape that can give deep reds and fresh rosés. In this guide we look at what it is, where its name comes from, what wine it makes, what to pair it with and how we interpret it at Cantina Albea, in Alberobello.

What is Susumaniello

Susumaniello is a black grape variety native to Puglia. For centuries it was grown mainly in northern Salento, especially around Brindisi, where it was vinified with other local grapes to add colour and structure to the wines. Only recently have some wineries started to vinify it on its own, discovering its character.

Its grapes have colour-rich skins and keep good acidity. These two qualities explain its versatility: Susumaniello makes red wines, rosés and, in some cases, even sparkling wines.

Why it is called Susumaniello

The most common explanation of the name points to the «somarello», the little pack donkey. According to farming tradition, young Susumaniello vines produce so much fruit that they are loaded like a donkey. As the years go by, however, the vineyard's yield drops sharply.

From near extinction to rediscovery

During the twentieth century Susumaniello came close to disappearing. As more productive and more marketable varieties spread, many vineyards were uprooted and the area under vine shrank dramatically. Over the last two decades the variety has been rediscovered by a group of Puglia producers, who have brought it back to the bottle with its name on the label.

Where it grows today

The historic heart of Susumaniello is still the province of Brindisi, but today the variety is also found in other parts of Puglia. We grow it in the Valle d'Itria, in our vineyards in Alberobello and Martina Franca: a hilly area, cooler and windier than the Salento plain, which shows in the fresh and mineral profile of our rosé.

What kind of wine Susumaniello is

Wines made from Susumaniello usually have a deep colour and aromas of red fruit such as cherry and plum, with floral or spicy notes depending on how the wine is made and aged. On the palate, the acidity supports the fruit and keeps the wine easy to drink even when it is structured.

Susumaniello red or rosé: the differences

The difference comes mainly from how long the must stays in contact with the skins. For the rosé the maceration is short: the wine takes on a pale pink colour and keeps its freshness and delicate aromas. For the red, the skins stay in contact with the must for several days and the wine gains colour, structure and ageing potential, especially if it then rests for a few months in wood.

What to pair Susumaniello with

The rosé is a versatile wine: it goes with light starters, salads, fish dishes and vegetable recipes. Serve it chilled, at 11-13 °C.

The red calls for more flavourful dishes: meat, cured meats and cheese. Served at around 16-18 °C it shows its aromas well without feeling heavy.

The Susumaniello wines of Cantina Albea

In Alberobello we make Susumaniello in two versions, both from vineyards in the Valle d'Itria.

Susumaniello Rosato Puglia IGP, Due Trulli range

Made from 100% organic Susumaniello grapes. It has a pale pink colour and aromas of pomegranate and broom; on the palate it is fresh and mineral, with clean strawberry and cherry fruit. It rests two months in the bottle. Alcohol 12.5% vol.

Susumaniello Rosso Puglia IGP

Pure Susumaniello, macerated for 13 days before and after fermentation and racked into French barriques. It ages six months in wood and another three in the bottle. The nose is delicate and elegant, the palate balanced. Alcohol 13.5% vol.

You will find both in the Susumaniello selection of our shop, together with the other wines of the Due Trulli range.

Susumaniello is one of Puglia's many native grapes: you will find them all in our guide to Puglia wines.

Frequently asked questions

Is Susumaniello a red or a rosé wine?

Both. Susumaniello is a black grape: a long maceration gives red wines, a short maceration gives rosés.

What does Susumaniello taste like?

It recalls red fruit, especially cherry and plum, with good freshness. The rosé is lighter and more floral, the red more structured.

Can you visit a winery that makes Susumaniello?

Yes. In Alberobello you can visit Cantina Albea and our Wine Museum, with tastings of our wines.